We are back to civilization which means we are back to having access to internet. For the past two days, Marilyn and I have had the chance to be "unplugged" from society. We had no cell phone or internet access so we could be "one with nature". It is going to be challenging to portray what we have had the opportunity to enjoy the past few days. Sitting here, it is hard to find the words to describe to you how magnificent Gombe has been. I will do my best to explain our journey in Gombe :)
After leaving Kigoma after breakfast, we hopped a "speed boat" to Gombe. It took approximately 45 minutes to boat to Gombe. On the way we got to view hand made fishing boats that had locals finishing for "dagaa", a small fish found in lake Tanganyika that is a staple in most Tanzanians diets. They are small fish that are caught and then laid our to dry, seasoned, and eaten like chips, eyes, tail, and all! Marilyn and I couldn't bring ourselves to try them :/
We arrived to the Jane Goodall Research facility, paid for Efraem to join us on our trek and headed out into the wild. We had no idea it was going to be such a trying adventure. 2 guides, Efraem, Marilyn, and I were literally hiking through the jungle. There was no path to follow, we just trapsed through the tall grasses, up steep valleys, shallow streams, and down slick hillsides. It was hot and steamy. Marilyn and I had questioned just how long we could take this heat and level of stamina for. It was decided that we had come this far, we had to continue until chimps were spotted. It was neat to watch the guides look for the chimps in the tree tops. They had a walkie talkie communication system in which they could relay messages throughout the jungle with other "spotters". Typically, first thing in the morning a group of "spotters" and researchers set out to find groups of the chimps. From there, they communicate with guides and other researchers back at the base. This is how our guides knew exactly where to take us. It isn't a zoo though, so therefore, when the chimps move, so do the researchers and spotters. The more the chimps moved, the farther we had to go. It was best for us to keep going and not stop so that they wouldn't continue to get farther and farther away. Finally, we managed to make it to the "T family". Our first spotting of the chimps was Mom, Tanga and her children, Tom, Tabora, and infant Tiirime. It was so wonderful to be just yards away from true wildlife. For years, Marilyn and I have enjoyed wildlife from our safari vehicle, but to actually walking amongst such magnificent creatures was entirely different. I was truly in awe watching there every move. We were fortunate enough to also have a doctoral student from Duke University, Emily, present that was able to answer any and all questions we had about the chimps. It is indescribable how fascinating the chimpanzees were. Hopefully the pictures I was able to take can do it some justice.
We trekked back to the beach of lake Tanganyika and headed back to the research center to catch the boat to the camp site we would be sleeping it. Talk about magnificent! Marilyn and I were the only ones present at the camp and had an entire service team waiting on us hand and foot. We aren't really sure what we have done to have been so blessed. It was probably the best service I have ever received. They carried our luggage and bags, they served us the most wonderful lunch equipped with an avocado the size of my hand, pizza, and fruit salad for lunch. After a late lunch, they walked us to the beach were we enjoyed a nap overlooking lake Tanganyika. We were woken up by cold drinks and homemade potato chips fresh off the grill. It was the perfect way to unwind after a grueling day of hiking. After finishing our snack, they made us a camp fire while they prepared our dinner consisting of steak gumbo, rice, and a banana split for dessert (literally, a banana split down the middle, with the most wonderful sticky dark chocolate in the middle). With full bellies, we headed to our large canvas tents for a hot shower, some reading time, and a good nights rests.
The next morning, the staff woke us up by greeting us with hot freshly ground coffee and biscuits (cookies). We then had a wonderful breakfast of local porridge (similiar to oatmeal), fresh fruits, and yai (eggs). We knew we needed to eat up so that we had strength for another full day of trekking through the jungle. This days trekking, however, was on an actual path. It was a much more relaxing hike! We were able to enjoy the sites around us rather than having to worry so much of the grueling landscape we were walking through. The guides were very knowledgeable about the different trees, fruits, and foliage that were home to the national park. We learned a lot of Jane Goodall and all of her work that she has done with the chimps of Gombe. The guides showed us her home, told us about the research projects she had initiated, showed us her famous "feeding station", and explained to us all of the different communities and families of chimps that were dwellers in Gombe.
Our guide had been told by the morning spotters, that no chimps had been spotted yet, so he decided to start us in the direction of the Gombe waterfalls and said we would just see what we came upon throughout of hike there. Sure enough, half way through our hike we ran into the current alpha male of Gombe, Ferdinand. He is 20 years old and stands about 5 feet tall. Here he was just sleeping in the middle of the trail. He was like he knew we were coming! We sat around and watch him for 30 minutes or so and then decided to carry on towards the falls. On our way, we ran into a group of researchers and got to see part of the "S Family." Mother, Sweeney, and infant daughter, Swaudy. It was really fun to watch the infant interact with her mother. Baby Swaudy, was intrigued by us human bystanders. As we sat and watch her, she tried catching a good view of us by peeking in between a set of trees. She was much like a shy, human, toddler. It was fun to watch us hang upside down on branches near her mom, nurse from under neither her mom, and climb on her mom like a jungle gym. After watching mom and baby Swaudy play for quite some time, we headed towards the falls to take a few pictures, rest, drink some water, and then head back down the mountain for a short boat ride back for lunch. Again Marilyn and I enjoyed a wonderful meal of grilled chicken and french fries, headed down to the beach for our afternoon nap, camp fire, dinner, and bed again. We were sad to leave early this morning back to Kigoma town but had a great time getting to know the staff. We felt like royalty for our few days in Gombe. It was truly one of the most amazing experiences I have ever had. I feel so blessed to have seen the chimpanzees of Gombe and to have had such a relaxing few days on the beach of Lake Tanganyika. Marilyn and I both agreed it was nice being "unplugged" from the usual electronics. We were able to take in and enjoy the sites and sounds around us!
Tomorrow we are headed out after breakfast on the long drive back to Arusha. We will stay the night again half way through, in Kahama, and then off again for another full day of driving. We don't mind having to endure another few days of dusty, bumpy roads, after the sites and pictures we were able to enjoy the past few days. The drive was definitely worth our time in Gombe. We hope you enjoy our pictures and look forward to sharing our Gombe stories in person when we return from Tanzania.
BBoat ride from Kigoma to Gombe
Ferdinand- the current alpha male since 2008
Efraem sitting close to Ferdinand
Marilyn couldn't kiss a chimp for Valerie, so she kissed "monkey balls" instead (fruit, but the locals call them Monkey Balls)
Walking by Ferdinand
Mom Sweeney and her baby Swaheri
Baby Swaheri peaking at us through the trees. She was hilarious! Very curious, but shy/scared at the same time
Baby Swaheri
Efraem at the Gombe Falls
Trekking towards the water fall
Baboons were of plenty around the beaches and camp site
What are you looking at Nyani??
Tom, eating some sticky, unripened fruit
Marilyn and I sitting in front of Tom, the rule was 10 meters, we're pretty sure we "broke" this rule several times. Samahani (sorry)
Baby Tarime with sticky fruit sap around her lips :)
Baby Tarime with her mom, Tanga
Tabora using a twig to get Termites out of the mound. This is one of the number of things Jane Goodall discovered during her 30 years with the chimps.... the chimpanzees use of "tools" to acquire food and water. We were lucky enough to see it in action :)
After leaving Kigoma after breakfast, we hopped a "speed boat" to Gombe. It took approximately 45 minutes to boat to Gombe. On the way we got to view hand made fishing boats that had locals finishing for "dagaa", a small fish found in lake Tanganyika that is a staple in most Tanzanians diets. They are small fish that are caught and then laid our to dry, seasoned, and eaten like chips, eyes, tail, and all! Marilyn and I couldn't bring ourselves to try them :/
We arrived to the Jane Goodall Research facility, paid for Efraem to join us on our trek and headed out into the wild. We had no idea it was going to be such a trying adventure. 2 guides, Efraem, Marilyn, and I were literally hiking through the jungle. There was no path to follow, we just trapsed through the tall grasses, up steep valleys, shallow streams, and down slick hillsides. It was hot and steamy. Marilyn and I had questioned just how long we could take this heat and level of stamina for. It was decided that we had come this far, we had to continue until chimps were spotted. It was neat to watch the guides look for the chimps in the tree tops. They had a walkie talkie communication system in which they could relay messages throughout the jungle with other "spotters". Typically, first thing in the morning a group of "spotters" and researchers set out to find groups of the chimps. From there, they communicate with guides and other researchers back at the base. This is how our guides knew exactly where to take us. It isn't a zoo though, so therefore, when the chimps move, so do the researchers and spotters. The more the chimps moved, the farther we had to go. It was best for us to keep going and not stop so that they wouldn't continue to get farther and farther away. Finally, we managed to make it to the "T family". Our first spotting of the chimps was Mom, Tanga and her children, Tom, Tabora, and infant Tiirime. It was so wonderful to be just yards away from true wildlife. For years, Marilyn and I have enjoyed wildlife from our safari vehicle, but to actually walking amongst such magnificent creatures was entirely different. I was truly in awe watching there every move. We were fortunate enough to also have a doctoral student from Duke University, Emily, present that was able to answer any and all questions we had about the chimps. It is indescribable how fascinating the chimpanzees were. Hopefully the pictures I was able to take can do it some justice.
We trekked back to the beach of lake Tanganyika and headed back to the research center to catch the boat to the camp site we would be sleeping it. Talk about magnificent! Marilyn and I were the only ones present at the camp and had an entire service team waiting on us hand and foot. We aren't really sure what we have done to have been so blessed. It was probably the best service I have ever received. They carried our luggage and bags, they served us the most wonderful lunch equipped with an avocado the size of my hand, pizza, and fruit salad for lunch. After a late lunch, they walked us to the beach were we enjoyed a nap overlooking lake Tanganyika. We were woken up by cold drinks and homemade potato chips fresh off the grill. It was the perfect way to unwind after a grueling day of hiking. After finishing our snack, they made us a camp fire while they prepared our dinner consisting of steak gumbo, rice, and a banana split for dessert (literally, a banana split down the middle, with the most wonderful sticky dark chocolate in the middle). With full bellies, we headed to our large canvas tents for a hot shower, some reading time, and a good nights rests.
The next morning, the staff woke us up by greeting us with hot freshly ground coffee and biscuits (cookies). We then had a wonderful breakfast of local porridge (similiar to oatmeal), fresh fruits, and yai (eggs). We knew we needed to eat up so that we had strength for another full day of trekking through the jungle. This days trekking, however, was on an actual path. It was a much more relaxing hike! We were able to enjoy the sites around us rather than having to worry so much of the grueling landscape we were walking through. The guides were very knowledgeable about the different trees, fruits, and foliage that were home to the national park. We learned a lot of Jane Goodall and all of her work that she has done with the chimps of Gombe. The guides showed us her home, told us about the research projects she had initiated, showed us her famous "feeding station", and explained to us all of the different communities and families of chimps that were dwellers in Gombe.
Our guide had been told by the morning spotters, that no chimps had been spotted yet, so he decided to start us in the direction of the Gombe waterfalls and said we would just see what we came upon throughout of hike there. Sure enough, half way through our hike we ran into the current alpha male of Gombe, Ferdinand. He is 20 years old and stands about 5 feet tall. Here he was just sleeping in the middle of the trail. He was like he knew we were coming! We sat around and watch him for 30 minutes or so and then decided to carry on towards the falls. On our way, we ran into a group of researchers and got to see part of the "S Family." Mother, Sweeney, and infant daughter, Swaudy. It was really fun to watch the infant interact with her mother. Baby Swaudy, was intrigued by us human bystanders. As we sat and watch her, she tried catching a good view of us by peeking in between a set of trees. She was much like a shy, human, toddler. It was fun to watch us hang upside down on branches near her mom, nurse from under neither her mom, and climb on her mom like a jungle gym. After watching mom and baby Swaudy play for quite some time, we headed towards the falls to take a few pictures, rest, drink some water, and then head back down the mountain for a short boat ride back for lunch. Again Marilyn and I enjoyed a wonderful meal of grilled chicken and french fries, headed down to the beach for our afternoon nap, camp fire, dinner, and bed again. We were sad to leave early this morning back to Kigoma town but had a great time getting to know the staff. We felt like royalty for our few days in Gombe. It was truly one of the most amazing experiences I have ever had. I feel so blessed to have seen the chimpanzees of Gombe and to have had such a relaxing few days on the beach of Lake Tanganyika. Marilyn and I both agreed it was nice being "unplugged" from the usual electronics. We were able to take in and enjoy the sites and sounds around us!
Tomorrow we are headed out after breakfast on the long drive back to Arusha. We will stay the night again half way through, in Kahama, and then off again for another full day of driving. We don't mind having to endure another few days of dusty, bumpy roads, after the sites and pictures we were able to enjoy the past few days. The drive was definitely worth our time in Gombe. We hope you enjoy our pictures and look forward to sharing our Gombe stories in person when we return from Tanzania.
Would it be alright if I use your last photo in a museum class about animal adaptations?
ReplyDeleteLaurel Navo
laurel.navo@dmns.org